My macrophotography workflow

If you ask me whether there’s an ideal workflow for macrophotography, my answer is clear: yes, there is an important order to follow. Optimizing your photo from the start will give much better results in terms of sharpness and detail when stacking. In this article, I’m going to share my personal workflow and provide concrete examples to show the difference between a method that works well and one that is less effective.

I want to make it clear that my technique is not a golden rule. Everyone has their own way of doing things. After experimenting extensively with different approaches, I’ve developed a workflow that consistently gives results I’m happy with. With that said, let’s start with the basics using my favorite software, DXO PureRAW.

Step one: PureRAW

DxO PureRAW is a RAW file pre-processing software that enhances image quality before you start editing. It uses advanced noise reduction, lens corrections, and AI-powered sharpening to improve detail, reduce digital noise, and correct optical flaws. The correction modules are linked to the camera and lens you used to take your photos.

The RAW file contains the most information, so it’s essential to handle it carefully. PureRAW helps reduce noise and, more importantly, enhances details beautifully. I treat each photo differently, but to give you an idea, here are my basic settings:

• DeepPRIME XD2s/XD

• Luminance: 58

• Force details: 16

• Lens sharpness optimization: 140

Once the images are processed, they are exported in DNG format, a universal format created by Adobe, which can then be developed in Lightroom. By this stage, your photos are already much sharper and more defined, ready to get the most out of the next step.

DxO PureRAW is my favorite software, and without it my photos simply wouldn’t look the same. The difference it makes in image quality is truly impressive. I highly recommend trying the free trial version, especially since it’s a paid software. It’s definitely worth testing to see the impact it can have on your photography.

The photo on the left shows the RAW files stacked directly in Helicon using method C. The photo on the right was also stacked with method C, but after being processed in PureRAW. The difference in detail is already like night and day! Both images are cropped at 100% to better illustrate the real effect on sharpness and detail.

Step two: Lightroom

Lightroom is widely used in photography, and I mainly use it for minor corrections and to convert DNG files into TIFF files. TIFFs retain all the adjustments made in Lightroom, such as color correction, exposure, and white balance, which is why we say we “develop” RAW files.

I always try to shoot with the final image in mind, making sure what I see in the viewfinder is as close as possible to the result I want. Proper lighting and camera settings make editing much easier. In Lightroom, I make slight adjustments to exposure, shadows, and whites. The dehaze slider is very useful in macro photography, and I adjust it depending on the effect I want.

When it comes to texture and clarity, I go very gently, never exceeding 10. If I’m working on a stack of 150 images, I treat each slice as if it were the final photo, focusing only on what is in focus on the screen. For the final slider, sharpening, I apply a mask set between 50% and 75%. This prevents over-sharpening when the stack is combined. An image that is artificially too sharp can be unpleasant to look at.

The photo on the left shows RAW files stacked directly in Helicon using method C. The photo on the right shows the same stack after Lightroom processing. The difference in sharpness and detail is striking. Small adjustments in Lightroom or Topaz can improve the RAW stack slightly, but nothing comes close to properly preparing your files from the start. Both images are cropped at 100% to better illustrate the real effect on sharpness and detail.

Step three: Helicon Focus

This is the software I use, though many people prefer Zerene. Personally, I haven’t noticed a significant difference, and I love that Helicon is visually intuitive and fast. Plus, it’s a small company based in Ukraine, and I’m happy to support them.

Now that the photos are sharp and developed, it’s time to compile everything. The software now has well-structured images so the algorithm can stack properly. All the preparation up to this point pays off here.

I use method C about 90 percent of the time. But it depends on the complexity of the photo. If there are foreground focus areas, like antennae, I use the slabbing technique built into Helicon, but that’s a topic for another article.

After method C is rendered, I also do a stack using method B. Method C gives a uniform background and handles fine details, like hairs, very well. However, it tends to create halos, so I use method B and Helicon’s built-in painting tool to fix areas that need correction. For export, I save my final image as an 18-bit TIFF, ready for the final step: Photoshop.

Step four: Photoshop

This is the final step, and it’s where the process can become a real time sink. I can spend over 10 hours perfecting a single photo. Correcting areas without texture, removing artifacts, eliminating dust specks, reconstructing missing parts on the insect—all of this takes time. But this is where you give your photo its unique touch and finalize the last details.

Some photos are simpler and can be finished in about an hour, but those are rare. The rule is simple: the higher the magnification, the more time it takes. Photoshop is a powerful tool, but complex to master. I’ve been using it for over 15 years, yet I’m far from claiming to know it inside out. I won’t go into the various techniques here, as that will be a good topic for another article!

In Conclusion

I hope I’ve shown how important it is to follow the right steps at the right time. Improving your photo early in the workflow allows stacking software to do a much better job. Don’t forget that you can experiment with the different settings in DxO PureRAW and Helicon Focus to achieve even better results. This workflow works well for me, but to truly get the best outcome, you need controlled lighting, excellent bracketing and a strong image to begin with.

Happy shooting everyone!